Updating my Rig (2011)
I'm looking to update my system, seeing as i think i can really push it much further =D.
i7 920 @ 2.66ghz (Stock Cooler)
NGTX 480 @ Stock
ASUS P6T SE
XFX 850W Modular PSU (BE)
Updated PC (Q3/4 2011).
CM HAF X
i7 920 @ 4.00ghz (Corsair Hydro H70 or CM V6GT)
NGXT 480 x 2 (Possibly, need advice)
EVGA FTW 3 X58
XFX 850W Modular PSU (BE)
So basically, i'm getting a CPU Cooler, A new airflow case, a new mother board and possibly a second GPU.
Go go go Gurus, point out the flaws and recommend =D
well. 2 480s is really overkill. Seeing that you're mainly playing CS:S, BC2 and sometimes OA.
If your really wanna spend that extra $500 for nothing much, then you're going to need a 1000 Watt Power supply. It could possibly run on an 850, but to be safe I would definitely get a 1000-1200 watt Power Supply
Also, whats up with a new motherboard? What are you expecting to gain(get) with a new motherboard, P6T is a very good board, and all you'd be getting with FTW3 is some features you will probably never use.
I guess, Scrapping the EVGA FTW 3 and the GTX 480, would it be advisable to buy the H70 and some new Ram instead or?
H70 isn't a water cooling system is it? I personally wouldn't recommend Water Cooling unless your going for 4.5 +
4.0 is really easy on air.
New RAM would be good, but you would need 4,6, or 12 GBs of RAM and if your going to upgrade might aswell get more, so lets say 6GB. 6GB Tri-Channel DDR3 1600mhz, sound good?
It is. Its an all-in-one unit. So you don't need to do anything. It's only a entry level water cooling unit tho. So its good as some high end air coolers, Noctua NH-D14 for an example is a very good air cooler, it is also dead silent.
I would just upgrade to 6gb of ram. tri channel is a big upgrade from dual channel(or so i've heard)
Wouldn't he be running Tri-Channel right now since he has an X58 Board?
As for a cooler, I would just do an Air cooler, the Noctua NH D14 like TwkR said is a great choice.
The Noctua NH-D14 isn't really a great choice when the Thermalright Silver Arrow costs the same, performs better, can handle heavier heat loads due to the more dense fin configuration and triple 38mm thick fan support and the included fans have PWM connectors and can perform slightly better than the NH-D14's fans.
I would guess the H70 is a tiny bit worse than the Silver Arrow but it has been shown to outperform a Thermalright Venomous-X. The good thing about the H70 is that if you use one you won't have to worry about RAM clearance. The included fans perform well but are not close to the quality of the Silver Arrow or NH-D14's stock fans.
I would not use an overclocked system with GTX 480 SLI on an 850W PSU since it won't be able to handle the load reliably. This is a good PSU for a great price, and can handle your desired system. He obviously isn't running triple channel memory as he has 4GB of RAM. If it runs at higher than 1.7v then it is not safe to use - the memory controller which is located on the CPU has a 1.65v rating. Go for a triple channel kit - stick to Corsair, G.SKILL or Mushkin since they have the very best kits and best customer service (so they say). Get a kit with low profile heat sinks if you plan on getting an air cooler. Finally, remember that lower timings equate to better performance so make your choice wisely. Remember that kits with 4GB DIMMs are becoming cheaper. Here is an example.
The motherboard upgrade is really pointless unless your motherboard does not support a Tri-SLI setup. It won't allow you to overclock much further. I'd just stick with your motherboard. As for a case, I'd go for either a Silverstone RV02-E (slightly better airflow especially for mGPU setups, sexier, great cable management, has a fan controller and you can easily clean every single dust filter) or the Lian-Li PC-B70. The latter is built 100x better than any case in the price range with aluminum tool free designs that have rubber anti-vibration dampeners. No cheap plastic bullshit on this case. Airflow can be very good if you zip tie a pair of 120mm or 140mm fans to the back of the HDD cage. Cable management is good (generous amount of room behind motherboard tray and hard drive cage) and it has plenty of storage plus dual PSU support but I doubt you care about it. Remember to check here for guidance on fans.
Totally forgot the Silver Arrow, and I was just thinking of purchasing one the other day.
Not to hijack the thread, but since all knowing Jester is here, would 2 Sythe S-Flex SFF21D or SFF21F be a good choice for the CPU Fans?
But damn, that silverstone case is ugly, the Lian Li would be nice if it weren't so boxy and didn't have such an ugly inside.
There's something about the ATCS 840 that I love, which is why I wont be needing a new case any time soon.
There are likely to be better choices than S-Flex fans. The 21D is just too slow to cool an overclocked quad core CPU well while the 21F is decent. Scythe GentleTyphoons are a better investment but harder to find. Your stock Hyper 212+ fan is much better, the Blade Master. It's not quiet at full speed but it has a PWM connector to help with noise. Hopefully the hydrostatic bearing versions come out soon. The ATCS 840 is a wannabe Lian-Li with sloppy lines everywhere and cheap build quality and missing features compared to the Lian-Li.
I'm looking on Crazy PC just so you know, its a few bucks cheaper than other places. It has the Kaze Jyuni which would be great but I don't know if I wanna listen to that 70+ dba all the time. What do you think?
As for the ATCS 840, its been doing great for me with no problems, I don't bring it around or drop it so outstanding build quality isn't really an issue as I doubt it will ever break somehow. It works great and looks great, that's really all that matters for me.
Their "Kaze" series are actually they're Crap series. The Kaze Jyuni AKA Slipstreams are the definition of "half-assed shit". The motor is designed for 80mm fans which is why one of mine died after a few months of usage. Static pressure is pathetic so they're the worst choice for CPU coolers and just a very poor choice in general.
As for the build quality of a case, you're right I guess. I just hate how the side panels don't line up as flush as I'd like on the ATCS 840, and the thin nature of them makes them poor for sound dampening. Mine vibrates now with my current fan setup. :lmao:
Alright so what would you reccomend on this list.
- Thermaltake A2018 120mm Blue LED - 3 Function fan operates at full speed, thermally controlled or manually adjustable. Comes with PCI slot control to adjust the fans speed. 120x25mm, 3pin, 12V DC, 38.6-93.7CFM, 17-46.5dBA.
- Thermalright TR-FDB-12-200 - 120x25mm, 3pin, 80.5cfm, 38dBA Fan
- Scythe S-Flex SFF21D - 120x25mm, 3pin, 33cfm, 9dBA Fan
- Scythe S-Flex SFF21F - 120x25mm, 3pin, 64cfm, 28dBA Fan
- Kaze Jyuni SY1225SL12SH - 120x25mm, 3pin, 12V DC, 1900rpm, 110cfm, 37dBA
- Yate Loon Blue LED D14SM-12 - 140x25mm, 3pin or 4pin, 62cfm, 29dBA
- Yate Loon D14SM-12 - 140x25mm, 3pin or 4pin, 62cfm, 29dBA
- Yate Loon D14SL-12 - 140x25mm, 3pin or 4pin, 46.9cfm, 25dBA
Again, sorry for the thread hijacking Spartan. :p
Hey, Spartan may be learning from this. The highest quality fan of those is the Thermalright TR-FDB-2000. Its hydrostatic bearings keeps noise down compared to sleeve bearing or ball bearing designs, and the self lubricating mechanism keeps them going for a long time. There is less friction between the shaft, bearing and thrust plate thus reducing noise and improving lifespan. Heat tolerances are also higher and it won't perform badly in a horizontal position, like sleeve bearing fans. This is how you have your CPU fans mounted, correct?
With that being said, the Cooler Master BladeMaster fans will perform better than any of those. Your Ultra Kaze is probably a bit better - static pressure is a bit lower yes but CFM is much higher because of how fast it spins. If you want to drop CPU temps start looking into Panaflo and San Ace fans. The Panaflo U1 is great for the price. 2705 RPM/114.7 CFM/45.5 DBA/8 mmH20 static pressure - over twice as much pressure compared to an Ultra Kaze. They undervolt fairly well too.
But I'd spend the extra money on a San Ace 9G1212E1011. It is rated for 3100 RPM/118 CFM/46 DBA with 10.2 mmH20 static pressure. It undervolts better than Panaflo fans (no odd pitches) and it will perform better. Keep in mind when ordering from industrial suppliers like Newark, they tend to come with bare leads - wires with sheathing but no connectors. San Ace fans are typical three wire fans (red = power, black = power and yellow or blue = RPM sensor or control) so you will need to solder the wires to a 3-pin connection which is simple enough. A fan header can power any of these with ease. You won't have to do this for the Panaflo I listed.
I'm not looking for extreme low temps. My temps are great as it is, I'm really just wanting to get it to say I have it, plus it looks nice. 🙂
You think popping in two undervolted Ultra Kazes will be alright? I really don't want it to be too loud. My temps hardly get above 60c when doing heavy gaming with my shroud setup I have going on with the Hyper 212. So it could only get better with the Silver Arrow.
Also, should I spend the money on getting it lapped by them or not?
Are you buying a new heat sink? I wouldn't bother having it lapped. Thermalright's current coolers come lapped already - the base is flat and the finish is the same as that of a mirror. Those temps are way higher than mine! Gaming hardly gets any core above 50 degrees Celsius for me. So expect better results with the Silver Arrow. Ultra Kazes undervolt like shit as they're total shit fans. Are your RAM heat sinks small? If so, get the Silver Arrow and just stick with the stock fans. They have PWM connectors, they're very high quality (the hydrostatic bearings best Panasonic's which are used in their Panaflo fans of course) and it will perform fine with them. 21 DBA max for each fan... very quiet fans. I can't even tell you what mine sounds like - I never hear the damn thing. I have it blowing upwards and it doesn't struggle like a normal sleeve bearing fan.